The charming Nubian villages on the east Nile bank
A thing not to be missed is visiting some Nubian villages, places where time seems to standstill. During our trip, we visited Niertod, Omoogal and Mulwad, fascinating villages in a desertic area on the east bank of the Nile river, between Dongola and Old Dongola. This area is still pristine and untouched, there is no tarred road, and indeed, it is infrequent to bump in a tourist. The thing that struck us most was the friendliness and kindness of the inhabitants. They invited us to their house, offering tea and fresh dates and trying to communicate with us.
Obviously, it was not easy because they only spoke Arabic and local dialects, but a smile is worth a hundred words. Here, people live mainly on agriculture and pastoralism. The Nile river runs alongside the villages making the soil fertile and suitable for cultivation, also creating meadows with always fresh grass where the livestock is free to graze. The typical Nubian house is built according to traditional schemes that date back to the ancient civilisation of Kush. The home, rich or poor, usually boasts elegant and beautiful polychrome decorations with which the external walls are frescoed. It is built only on one floor around a rectangular courtyard. The fascinating feature is undoubtedly the entrance polychrome doorway that impresses with its majesty and rare beauty and represents the prevalent art form typical of the region.
If you want to try the experience of spending a night in a Nubian village, thus having the opportunity to “explore” the beautiful area without rushing, we found a really welcoming and clean home in the village of Mulwad (pics above and below). The owners are two truly hospitable elderly gentlemen; the rooms are large and the kitchen spacious. Obviously, you will have to organize yourself with food because you won’t find anything. As the only way to reach the villages is with a tour operator, your drivers will certainly know how to arrange the visit and overnight stay. The house is located in the square just opposite the Mulwad mosque. Click here to see the position on Google map. If you go around this area, don’t forget to bring pens and pencils for kids who go to school. For example, you will find a school near the mosque in Mulwad village.
