Morocco, what to see and do in Fes

Do you want to discover the best attractions in Fès? Let’s wander with us!

Fès is the oldest of the four imperial cities, founded in the early 9th century as the country’s first political, religious and cultural capital.

Its bustling Medina, inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage list site in 1981, is a fascinating maze of narrow alleys with many shops where donkeys and mules are the only means of transport.

With its 12 km of extension, it is considered the largest closed urban traffic area in the world with a population of 156.000 residents.

• Click here to read about our guide to visiting Fès.

Our day trip in the bustling Medina

At 8 am we are in front of the hotel waiting for our local guide. Usually, we prefer to go around on our own, but the old city of Fes is a vast labyrinth of more than 9000 narrow alleys, and the chance to get lost is high.

Yes, exactly more than 9000 alleys! This chaotic and lively maze of goods, people, animals, smells and colours is divided into districts that also feature bustling souks. The most interesting souks are the Henna souk, one of the oldest in Fes, where you can find cosmetics and pottery, the Attarine souk, dedicated to spices and perfumes, the Essafarine souk where artisans still work wrought iron, the Coppersmiths souk, and of course, the most famous tanners’ quarter with its colourful dyeing tanks where the workers still use the traditional process to colour the skins.

1. Royal Palace

We begin the visit with a quick glance at the Royal Palace, famous to features seven golden doors. Although the Palace cannot be visited because it is still the King’s residence when he is in Fes, its facade with 7 big golden doors worth a quick stop.

2. Mellah

Leaving the Royal Palace, we walk for a few minutes towards the close Mellah, the old Jewish quarter of the city. The quarter is full of history and Jewish-style architecture, such as the Ibn Danan Synagogue located in the heart of the Mellah.

Strolling here is really interesting as the buildings present an architectural style different from the purely Arabic style of the other neighbourhoods.  The buildings have balconies and openings to the outside, which you do not find in Arabic buildings where every opening is turned inwards.

In fact, traditional Moroccan dwellings, known as Riad, are usually completely closed buildings with no external views, to ensure complete privacy, which is extremely important in Islamic culture.

3. Fès viewpoint

After the exciting walk through the alleys of the Mellah, we jump on our vehicle to reach and high observation point where it’s possible to admire the boundary walls that encompass the incredible and ancient medina of Fes. Indeed the old city is vast, but you can’t realise how much it is until you get to this viewpoint. Here, the first thought is: “what the hell, impossible not to get lost there!”.

4. Seffarine square

It’s the time to get lost into narrow alleys of the Medina, so we jump on the car going towards the old city. Starting from Bab Rcif gate, crossing the large Rcif square lined by the Rcif mosque, we finally enter inside the beating heart of Fes.

Our first stop is Seffarine square that owes its name from the coppersmiths who practised one of the essential handcraft jobs in the history of Fès. Here, around the square and its alleys, it is still possible to admire coppersmiths and boilermakers pounding copper and brass and many shops exposing a variety of tools such as pots, trays, teapots, incense burners and other objects.

5. Madrasa Ras Cherratine

Walking only a few minutes from Seffarine square, we visit the interesting Ras Cherratine Madrasa. Built by Sultan Moulay Rachid in 1670, it was the residence and Koranic school for students who attended the nearby Al Quaraouiyine University. Although the madrasa is less decorated than the most famous Bou Inania, it boasts a courtyard with mosaics on the floor and a small fountain in the centre. On the upper floors, it is possible to visit the rooms that were once used by the students.

6. Madrasa Al-Attarine

This old Koranic school, located in the spice and perfume souk, was built in the 14th century and is considered a wonder of Marinid architecture. Its interior design is simply amazing. It’s fully decorated and adorned with green and blue zellige tiles, carved plaster with Quranic inscriptions, cedarwood doors and a fountain in the courtyard.

7.  Al-Quaraouiyine and University

Close to Al Attarine Madrasa is located the Al-Quaraouiyine Mosque (or Al-Karaouine), built in 859 and believed to be one of the oldest university in the world. It now operates as a mosque and cannot be entered by non-Muslims. Even today it is considered one of the leading spiritual and intellectual centres of Islam and is still the seat of the Islamic University of Fes.

It can host up to 20,000 people in prayer, and his library has more than 30 thousand volumes, including some valuable pieces such as the manuscript of the Arab doctor Averroè of 1320. If you like, you can have a perfect view of the mosque courtyard from the rooftops of nearby restaurants.

7) Najjarine square and Najjarine Fondouk

Going on with our walk, we reach the tiny and suggestive Najjarine square. The first thing that draws our sight is the beautiful mountain Najjarine, finely decorated with colourful mosaics. Next to the fountain, inside a Fondouk, it is now located the Museum of the wood. Built in the 18th century, this Fondouk provided rest to the many luxury goods merchants who came to Fès from all over the country. It was declared a historical monument in 1916 and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

9. Mausoleum of Zaouia Moulay Idriss II

Leaving the square, we pass through a curious alley where the merchants sell wedding decorations and wedding dresses, and then, with a short walk, we reach the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II. The Mausoleum was built at the end of the 18th century, and it contains the tomb of Idris II who ruled Morocco from 807 to 828. Idriss II is considered the principal founder of the city of Fes and of the first Moroccan Islamic state.

The Mausoleum has a mosque on its grounds that is used for religious purposes and a tomb for funerals. The area that surrounds the Mausoleum is considered sacred, and it’s delimitated by horizontal wooden bars that were initially used to keep Christians, Jews and donkeys out. Like most religious sites, access to non-Muslims is prohibited, so you can only take a look at the front door.

10. Tanneries district

After a quick stop in a local small factory selling beautiful handmade scarves and carpets, we reach the most famous attraction of Fès: the picturesque tanneries. Going up the stairs of one of the several leather shops surrounding the tanneries, we reach its terrace from where we can enjoy a fantastic view of the many colourful dyeing tanks.

Here, in this Unesco World Heritage site, the workers still use the same process of the 16th century, when Fès established itself as a leader in the production and treatment of camel, cow, sheep and goat skins. Since they use pigeon poo to soften the animal hides, we are given a small sprig of mint to ward off the bad smell.

Even though we would never be tired to watch this worldwide unique place, it’s the time to go on. The tanneries’ viewpoint is on the terrace of a shop, so we have to wander inside it for some minutes while the owner tries to bargain his leather garments. They sell everything, from jackets to trousers, from belts to shoes and the famous babouche slippers.

11. Lunch in the Medina

It’s almost 2 pm, so the moment for our break is coming up. Following our guide through the narrow alleys, we decide to try some local food along our way. We find a tiny restaurant cooking on the grill meat skewers, so we choose to stop here. Just behind the display of the food, on the right side there is the grill and on the left a small space with a table and only 5 chairs that we share with 2 locals. It was a great choice, and the food was delicious!

12. Bou Inania Madrasa

Satisfied with the tasty lunch, we continue our exploration going towards Bab Bou Jeloud gate. Now the Medina is overcrowded, and we have “to fight” like a rugby player to keep our way. At some point, we hear two people screaming animatedly with each other. Obviously we don’t understand as they are arguing in Arabic. Later on, we are told that the young guy bumped into the leg of an older man with a handcart causing his reaction. The alleys are really narrow, and when a myriad of people crosses them, that can happen too!

Anyway, with a long walk, we get to the Bou Inania Madrasa, considered the most beautiful Koranic school of Fes. It was built in the 14th century, and it features gorgeous mosaics, carved plaster, hand-carved walls, zellige tile work and a fountain in the courtyard. Now it works as a mosque (it also has a minaret) and during the prayer times, tourists are not allowed to enter.

13. Dar al Magana and Bab Bou Jeloud

Opposite to the Bou Inania Madrasa, we have a quick look at the interesting Dar-al-Magana, the old water clock built by the Marinid Sultan Abu Inan Faris and now out of use. Passing by stalls selling fruit, vegetable, meat and fish, we reach the fantastic Bab Bou Jeloud gate. Built in Andalusian Moorish style, Bab Bou Jeloud is decorated with ceramic tiles glazed with arabesques and Moroccan geometric patterns.

It’s the west entrance of the Medina, and from here, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira, the two main streets of the medina, begin until they reach the Al-Karaouine mosque-university. Our enjoyable day through the old beating heart of Fes is over, and now it’s the time to end up our day with a relaxing massage in a hammam!

Need to know about the tour