The ultimate guide to visiting the Lake Malawi National Park

What to see and do in Cape Maclear

Lake Malawi, also known as Lake Nyasa,  is the southernmost Lake of the African lakes of the Rift Valley system. Located between Malawi, Mozambique and Tanzania, it is the third-largest Lake in Africa: about 580 km long and 80 wide at its widest point, it reaches even 700 meters deep. With a variety of landscapes ranging from rocks overlooking the water to beaches of fine golden sand, its waters are famous for snorkelling, scuba diving, kayaking, boat rides,  beautiful swimming and other activities.

David Livingstone reached the Lake in 1859 and nicknamed it “lake of stars” because of the many fishermen lanterns on the boats cruising it and that resemble, from a distance, stars in the sky. Lake Malawi is crucial for the population living around it since it provides food fish source, drinking water, irrigation and also hydroelectricity.  The Lake also features several islands, but it has only two of them inhabited: Likoma and Chizumulu Island.

Cape Maclear beach -west side, Lake Malawi
Cape Maclear beach – west side, Lake Malawi

Need to know about Lake Malawi National Park

In the southern end of the Lake is located the beautiful Lake Malawi National Park. It was the first freshwater park in the world and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. The Lake is defined as “the large aquarium” as it contains the most significant number of tropical fish species from any other lake in the world, including about 1000 species of cichlids. Many cichlids species from the Lake are very popular among aquarium owners because of their bright colour.

Thumbi Island beach, Lake Malawi
Thumbi Island beach, Lake Malawi

The base of all the activities around the Park is Cape Maclear-Chembe village. Here, you can enjoy the lake arranging boat tours with snorkelling and fish eagles feeding, scuba diving, kayaking, village tour, hiking and indeed, souk up the warm sun on the beach.

When to go

The right time to visit the Cape Maclear is during the dry season from April/May to September/October (above all from June to August when the temperature is cooler and the sky mostly clear). The hot season runs from October to the end of December when temperatures can reach more than 30°, and the weather is humid as the rains build up. The rainy season is from January to the end of April.

How to get there

If you are not travelling with a tour operator but you prefer catching the local transports, you can reach Cape Maclear – Chembe village by bus. The easiest and fastest way from Lilongwe is to take the bus. The Axa bus company leaves daily from Lilongwe (and Blantyre) to Monkey Bay, and the price is around 10 USD. Once there, for a few MKW, you can take a Matolas (it’s a pickup where you sit on the back), a small motorcycle or a minibus taxis. The other options are by a private transfer arranged through your accommodation or by renting a car in Lilongwe. The road to Cape Maclear is in good condition (as are most of the roads in Malawi), only the last few kilometres are gravel/dirt. Lilongwe – Cape Maclear takes about 3 hours. Click here to see our itinerary through Malawi and general information.

A fun way to reach or leave Cape Maclear could be by the Ilala ferry boat. There are also routes with shared minivans from Monkey Bay up the lakeshore direct to Nkhata Bay/Nkhotakota/Senga bay/ but the road is not that good.

Ilala ferry: it’s the most famous steamboat of the Lake Malawi, and it doesn’t need presentation. For those who want to live an unforgettable experience, a ride on Ilala ferry is a must. It cruises the Lake from Cape Maclear (Monkey Bay) to Likoma Island and Chilumba (north part of the Lake) stopping in some towns along the lake shores (Senga Bay, Nkhotakhota and Nkhata Bay) loading people and goods.  It should take 3 days from Cape Maclear to Chilumba, but this is Africa, and the ferry is always late! Click here for more information. You can arrange your ride and book a cabin through the accommodations in any town where the boat stops.

About Chembe village

Chembe is a wide village that lies along the shore of the Lake, but it doesn’t offer a lot. Therefore, all the accommodations have a bar and restaurant. Anyway, you’ll also find some small restaurants like Makata’s Bar & restaurant, Banapaya (our favourite! It’s on the beach), Thomass, Chikaya Malawian Restaurant, Mungo Restaurant & Bar or Hiccups Pub.

A thing not to be missed in the early morning is a walk on Chembe beach (on the right side of Fat Monkey Lodge) to see the fishers. Around 6 a.m. the fishers get back from the night fish crowding the shore sharing the catch of the night with the villagers. A part of these fish will be settled on wooden tables to be sundried and later sold to the fish market.

Chembe has a very long beach and you’ll find the most pristine sand and clear sea on the west side of the village towards Otter Point. The east side is very dirty since there are many houses next to the shore and the boats of the fishers. Not to be missed it’s the incredible sunset, said to be the most amazing of the whole Malawi.

At night, from 7 p.m., you can have a walk along the streets of Chembe (on the east side) where you’ll find small local shops and stalls selling street food.

Last but not least, for an enjoyable experience, the children of the village will be very happy to meet you at the “afterschool” Tipezananso, a project created and funded in 2005 by a dutchman and run by locals (located a few minutes on foot from Fat Monkey Lodge). 

Where to sleep in Cape Maclear

Chembe offers a wide range of accommodations, from camping and dorm to room and chalet. The most beautiful and pristine part of the beach is on the west side towards Otter Point. We slept at Fat Monkey Lodge with our tent (they also have dorms and rooms). If you prefer to stay on the west side, we suggest Mgoza Lodge. Click here to see other accommodations in Cape Maclear.

 

Booking.com

Traveller’s health

Click here for more information; keep in mind that bilharzia disease is present in Lake Malawi so as in most of African lakes and rivers. It’s always better to take precautionary measures and wearing water shoes when you walk in the shallow or on the beach to avoid the contact between your skin and the sand. When you are in Lilongwe, you can go to a Pharmacy and buy the medicine to prevent the disease. In Chembe, we only found the medicine to treat the schistosomiasis.

Malaria is also endemic, remember to take measures to protect yourself above all at night by applying mosquito repellent that contains at least 30% DEET (the accommodations usually have a mosquito net in the room). There’s a medical clinic, the Billy Riordan memorial clinic, that can help you for all minor illnesses. For any serious injuries/illnesses, you have to go to the Monkey Bay Hospital or  Lilongwe. The medical expenses could be very high; therefore, don’t forget to stipulate travel insurance. We always made it with World Nomads. In case they also offer scuba diving insurance.

Activities in Cape Maclear

Boat trips and the other activities are organised through the Cape Maclear Tour Guides Association. We suggest contacting Maxwell and Peter, both accreditated guides, for arranging your daily tour in Cape Maclear (WhatsApp +265 999015092). Click here to find out our activities in Cape Maclear.

1. Boat trip to West Thumbi Island and Otter point: it’s the classic tour to enjoy the beautiful environment of the Lake. The boat ride will take you in Thumbi island where you can experience the fish eagle feeding, snorkelling among hundreds of colourful cichlids and also have lunch with fresh fish on Thumbi beach. The other stop is at Otter Point, a small and wild rocky peninsula where you can climb up the rocks and dive in the clear water of the Lake.  In the afternoon, you can also arrange a Sunset cruise, waiting for the beautiful sunset on the Lake Malawi sipping a cold drink.

2. Boat trip to Ilala gap: it’s a nice trip to explore the east side of the Cape through the Ilaga Gap channel located between Cape Maclear and Domwe Island. The ride includes stops for the fish eagle feeding, snorkelling and lunch.

3. Kayaking: most of the lodges have their kayaks and canoes. If you want to enjoy this beautiful natural area on your own, you can rent a kayak and paddle out to Thumbi Island or Otters Point or simply have a relaxing trip along the shore.

4. Hiking Trails:  if you like hiking, don’t miss the Nkhunguni hill trail. Surrounded by lush and uncontaminated nature, you’ll reach a high viewpoint giving you a bird’s eye view on the Lake. After the hike, you’ll cool off at Otter Point. The duration of the walk is around 3 hours, and the difficulty is moderate. At the beginning of the hike, you’ll notice a missionary grave marking the last resting place of the malaria-struck missionaries of the Free Church of Scotland who came in Cape Maclear in 1875 attempted to set up a new Mission.

5. Fishing: it’s an excellent opportunity for fishing lovers to enjoy the Lake trying to catch some fish such as Chambo or the Lake Malawi Tigerfish (they provide all the equipment). Another option is to go out with a fisherman and its wooden canoe and fish with a hand line. For a truly authentic experience, you can also ask to join the local fishermen during a night fishing trip and see how they face their daily life.

6. Hippo Viewing and local Dancing at Kasankha: you’ll have a boat ride to Kasankha bay to see some hippos and a stop in a village to attend the “Gule Wamkulu” traditional dance.

7. Scuba diving: Lake Malawi is also a paradise for divers. The dive shops can also arrange open water/advanced/divemaster courses or a discover scuba lesson.

8. Beach barbecues: it’s an excellent way to enjoy the night with a Malawian style BBQ eating fish, chicken and duck served with rice and vegetables.

9. Other activities: the trips or additional destinations/activities can be easily discussed with the guides.

the stunning sunset in Cape Maclear, Lake malawi
the stunning sunset in Cape Maclear, Lake Malawi

Other places in Lake Malawi National Park

Mumbo Island: around 45 minutes by boat from Chembe, the small Mumbo island (only 1 km wide) offer the opportunity to escape in a beautiful and uncontaminated tropical paradise in the Lake Malawi National Park. The island has never been populated and is still in its natural state. The only accommodation is Mumbo Island Camp, and it’s quite expensive. They offer all the activities such as boat tours, hiking, kayaking, snorkelling and scuba. Click here for more information about Mumbo Island

Domwe island: it’s the biggest unpopulated island of the Lake (the circumference is 11 km) and features a combination of the island itself and African bush environments. It offers several hiking trails in the middle of the uncontaminated nature. There’s only a basic camp with a few safari tents, a tent site, a self-catering kitchen with a dining area and a bar, and a private beach. Click here for more information.

Monkey Bay: it’s a small town well known to be one of the Lake Malawi’s main ports. Monkey bay is where the famous Ilala ferry docks and begins its weekly ride up and down the Lake. Anyways, there are some sandy beaches and rocky headlands to explore. In this area, there are just a few lodges such as Monkey Bay Beach Lodge, Mufasa eco-lodge, Nkhudzi Beach Lodge (20 km south of Monkey bay) and Norman Carr Lodge (12 km south of Monkey bay and features beautiful beaches in the surroundings). The lodges offer several activities such as hiking, boat tours, kayaking, scuba, snorkelling, and cultural tour in the villages (including traditional food and dances).

Maxwell and Peter
Maxwell and Peter
Locals waiting for the fishermen boats, Lake Malawi NP
Locals at Chembe beach in Cape Maclear, Lake Malawi

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