A beautiful day enjoying the Lake Malawi National Park
We wake up at 6 a.m. when the sun is almost rising, ready to take a walk on the long beach of Chembe-CapeMaclear to see the fishermen returning from night fishing. The lake shores are already crowded.
The women of the village wash the pots or the laundry, some locals refresh themselves in the lake after the night, and the children chase each other and play cheerfully. Step by step, the fishing boats begin to return from the long night. Onboard, sitting on the bulky nets, there are at least a dozen fishermen. Once on the shore, many locals surround the boat looking for fish: a part of the catching will be shared with families of the fishermen, and a part will be sent to the fish markets to make money and also cover the expense of the fishing. A local fisherman tells us that many fishers don’t have a fishing boat and they have to pay rent to the owner.
Lake Malawi is vital for the population living around it since it provides a significant food fish source, drinking water, irrigation and also hydroelectricity. He says the most common fish are Chambo, Kampango catfish and above all the lake Malawi sardine known as Kukwiya. Usually, the sardines are spread out to dry on long tables near the shore to be sold at the markets but unfortunately, these days are not suitable for fishing because of the full moonlight.
At 9 a.m. we meet our friends Maxwell and Peter, 2 accreditated tour guides of Lake Malawi National Park to start our boat trip on the lake and get the most out of its wonders. The water is smooth and still, and enjoying the warm sun, we head to the west side of Thumbi Island. At some point, they switch off the engine, and after a quick sight around, they start whistling and throw a fish into the lake. Suddenly, from a high tree on the slope, a big African fish eagle jumps out from its nest coming up to us. The African fish eagle is a magnificent bird, with black/brown on its wings and belly and a distinctive white head, chest and tail. With an acute sight, great speed and agility, it could weigh up to 2.5 kg with a wingspan of about 2 metres. Step by step, we admire this majestic bird flies close to us above the water spreading its broad wings and suddenly dive and catch the fish on the surface of the lake with the powerful claws.
After feeding some fish eagles, we head to the south side of Thumbi Island. Here, close to the rocky shore, we can finally see the cichlids that make so famous the Lake Malawi (known as Mbuna that means “rockfish,” in the local language). When we were kids, we used to pay a visit to our grandfather that in the hall, right in front of the main door, had a big aquarium plenty of colourful tropical fish with wild patterns and intense colours. We have always wished to find a place in the world where to dive surrounded by these marvellous creatures, and finally, after a long time, the lake Malawi is the right place. The Malawi cichlids are popular because you can notice them to tropical freshwater aquariums everywhere. We immediately dive into the water, and in a while, we are swimming among the colourful cichlids. Zebra-striped, pale pink, iridescent purple, flaming orange, shimmering blue and bright yellow; it’s a dream-like sensation, and we feel likes floating in a huge freshwater aquarium.
Even though we would have stayed there all day, it’s time to move to Thumbi beach and take a bit of relaxing. While we are enjoying the small beach go and back from the water, Maxwell and Peter start cooking lunch. We couldn’t ask better: fresh fish, rice and a delicious mix of stewed vegetables. After an hour soaking up the warm sun, we jump into the boat heading to Otter Point, a small and wild rocky peninsula in the west of side Chembe. This area is quite far from the village, and its long white sand beach is lovely, and the water incredibly cristal clear. Once at Otter Point, we climb up the big rock leaping into the water like kids. It’s another chance to have fun and to enjoy the surprising lake Malawi. It’s almost 2 p.m., and our trip is ending up.
Back the lodge, we thanks Maxwell and Peter for this fantastic tour with the wish to come back again a day. Our exploration is not done yet. After drinking a cold beer at the bar facing the shores, we decide to have a walk along the dusty street of Chembe. All the activities are still closed, but, a few minutes walk from the lodge, it’s located an “afterschool” for the children by name Tipezananso. It’s a project created and funded in 2005 by a dutchman and run by locals. It offers to the children of Chembe the opportunity to play among themselves, but also the teaching of how to look after their things and how to maintain their environment. We spend a couple of hours playing with the many kids and talking with a teacher that explains to us how the project works. At 5 pm we take place on the beach in front of the lodge sipping a beer waiting for the sunset, said to be the most stunning of the whole Malawi. The sun lies low on the horizon with the silhouette of Thumbi island on its right, the last red-orange rays of sunlight turn Cape Maclear to a beautiful painting, a painting that will never forget. See you soon Lake Malawi!
Need to Know about Cape Maclear
|Click here to find out all the information you need about Lake Malawi National Park.
Boat trips and other activities are organised through the Cape Maclear Tour Guide Association. We suggest contacting Maxwell and Peter, both accreditated guides, for arranging your activities in Cape Maclear (WhatsApp +265 999015092).